n. for depth. For the front, "plough" out 0.375
in. from the edge, and 0.375 in. deep, this still leaves 0.375 in. out
of the 0.75 in. untouched; turn the upright now on its side and repeat
the "ploughing," allowing for just missing the point of intersection.
Fig. 39 shows a section; the dark part is the wood left, the dotted
squares show where the wood has been removed; the corner A, outside
the dotted line, is afterwards rounded off. Each upright is "ploughed"
alike; they are then glued and nailed to the top and bottom by brads
running through; the rounded edges falling outside.
The case is now finished, as will be seen, for the reception of glass
at its front and sides. First, however, it will have to be blacked or
ebonised. Mix, therefore, some "lamp" or "drop" black in powder with
thin glue-water, boil, and lay the mixture on with a stiff brush over
the case whilst warm. When quite dry, rub it down with fine sand
paper.
The subjects being mounted in the case, paper the glass in with brown
paper and strong paste, and then go over the previously blackened case
with a very thin coat of Brunswick black. When this is dry put a slip
of 0.5 in. or 0.75 in. gilt moulding (procured at the picture frame
maker's) all around the front of the case on top of the prepared
glass, and just within the edges of the wood "ploughed" out to receive
it, nicely mitring the comers with a mitre and shooting block.
The foundation of this latter is a sound 1 in. board, 2 ft. 6 in. long
by 18 in. wide, or of any other convenient dimensions. Upon this is
screwed another piece an inch or more thick (Fig. 40), so as to make a
step (C C). Both pieces must be dry, so as not to be liable to warp;
upon the higher part are screwed two strips of hard wood (B B) about
1.5 in. or 2 in. wide, forming a right angle where they meet. The
whole must be very accurately made, and although deal will answer the
purpose, hard wood of some kind will be more satisfactory. Beech or
oak will do very well.
Fig. 40--Mitre block.
Suppose a piece of moulding to require mitring; it has only to be laid
as shown against the guide bar (B), and sawn off on the line (CC), or
laid on the other side against the second guide bar, and similarly cut
off. It will be necessary to use both sides in this way, because,
although the piece cut off has also an angle of 45 deg, it would need
to be turned over and applied to the other, which could not be done
without reversing the
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