there
is a fort and a governor, and where several merchants reside to supply
whalers with provisions, we embarked once more on board the schooner,
and ran round the south of the island to a small harbour in the
neighbourhood of Whyhohino, a chief missionary-station. We were
received very kindly by the missionaries, and they procured us horses to
enable us to accomplish one of the chief objects which had brought us to
the place--a visit to the summit of the great volcano of Kilauea. They
also found us two guides who were to accompany us to the crater, while
two other men were to remain with the horses below. Mr Callard himself
had his duties to attend to, so that he could not accompany us. Ben
Yool had been left with the schooner, so our party consisted of Mr
McRitchie, Cousin Silas, Jerry, and I, not forgetting old Surley. He
always kept close to us, suspecting, perhaps, if the natives caught him,
they might cook and eat him. We were well supplied with provisions, and
with bottles of water, which we could replenish on the way. We
travelled at first along the coast, and then struck inland, directing
our course towards the lofty summit of the mountain, whence, even at
that distance, we could see pillars of smoke ascending to the sky. It
was getting dark when our guides told us that close at hand was a cavern
in which we might pass the night sheltered from the weather. Torches of
resinous wood were soon procured, and they led the way down a steep
path, till we found ourselves at the entrance of an immense cavern
formed in the lava. It was some hundred feet square, and from fifteen
to twenty high. When lighted up by the torches, it had a very wild and
picturesque appearance. The horses were tethered in one part, while we
all went out and collected grass and fern leaves for our beds, and a
good supply of fuel for our fire. Having cooked our supper, we sat
round the fire, while one of the natives, who spoke English very well,
told us some of the wonderful tales about Pele, the goddess of the
burning mountain, and her numerous diabolical followers. Though our
guides were now Christians, and professed to disbelieve all these
fables, it was evident that their minds were considerably affected by
them; so difficult is it to get rid of early associations. The cavern
had become rather smoky, and Mr Brand had gone out to enjoy the cool
air, when he called us to him. We looked towards the mountain, which
rose in majest