rmation. From
all I heard, I should not at all like to live in Mexico. The
descendants of the fierce conquerors have become a most degenerate race,
without religion, without morality--each man ready to destroy his
neighbour for the sake of getting into his place. That object seems to
be the only end and aim of all their politics. As to patriotism, it
does not exist. The nearest approach to the sentiment is made by those
who wish for a settled government, that they may enjoy their property in
peace and quiet. The consequences of the constant change of government
are, that brigands abound, that the confines of the country are left
open to the depredations of the Red Indians, and that the army of the
state is left in a dreadfully disorganised condition--ill paid, ill fed,
ill clothed, and utterly unable to cope with the evils which beset them.
We stopped for a few hours at a ruined house to take our mid-day meal,
and then continued our journey. Soon after this we came to some
blackened walls which showed where a village once stood. We learned
from the rancheroes that only a few weeks before there existed on the
spot a pretty hamlet, with a contented and happy population of some
fifty persons or so. One morning, just as they were setting forth to
their work, the dreaded war whoop of the Indians was heard. Two or
three hundred Red Indian warriors, armed with spears, rifles, and round
shields, were seen galloping towards the devoted village. Some of the
people fled. All tried to flee, for so completely unprepared were they
that there was no time to make any defence. The women and children, as
they were overtaken, were indiscriminately slaughtered. The plunder
that was considered worth carrying off was collected, and then in
wantonness the village was set on fire. A few of the fugitives had at
length reached Durango with the tale of their misfortunes. Some troops
had been sent out with orders to exterminate the savages, but they took
very good care not to come near them, while the Indians indeed were
probably making a foray some two or three hundred miles away. At night
we reached a rancho, the owner of which was known to our friends. He
received us hospitably, slung hammocks for us in one of the corridors of
the house, and gave us the usual tortillas, and eggs, and beans for a
feast, in addition to some very fine beef. The evening of the next day
was approaching, when, as we were descending a hill, we saw in