word, the Spirit of Generosity
ran thro' the whole House.

"In these Times all the Spits were sparkling, the _Hackin_ must be
boiled by Day-break, or else two young Men took the Maiden by the
Arms, and run her round the Market-place, till she was ashamed of her
Laziness. And what was worse than this, she must not play with the
Young Fellows that Day, but stand Neuter, like a Girl doing penance in
a Winding-sheet at a Church-door.

"But now let us enquire a little farther, to arrive at the Sense of
the Thing; this great Festival was in former Times kept with so much
Freedom and Openness of Heart, that every one in the Country where a
Gentleman resided, possessed at least a Day of Pleasure in the
_Christmas_ Holydays; the Tables were all spread from the first to the
last, the Sir-Loyns of Beef, the Minc'd-Pies, the Plumb-Porridge, the
Capons, Turkeys, Geese, and Plumb-Puddings, were all brought upon the
board; and all those who had sharp stomachs and sharp Knives eat
heartily and were welcome, which gave rise to the Proverb--

_Merry in the Hall, when Beards wag all._"

"There were then Turnspits employed, who by the time Dinner was over,
would look as black and as greasy as a Welch Porridge-pot, but the
Jacks have since turned them all out of Doors. The Geese which used to
be fatted for the honest Neighbours, have been of late sent to
_London_, and the Quills made into Pens to convey away the Landlord's
Estate; the Sheep are drove away to raise Money to answer the Loss of
a Game at Dice or Cards, and their Skins made into Parchment for Deeds
and Indentures; nay even the poor innocent Bee, who used to pay its
Tribute to the Lord once a Year at least in good Metheglin, for the
Entertainment of the Guests, and its Wax converted into beneficial
Plaisters for sick Neighbours, is now used for the sealing of Deeds to
his Disadvantage.

"But give me the Man _who has a good Heart_, and has Spirit enough to
keep up the Old way of Hospitality, feeds his People till they are as
plump as Partridges, and as fat as Porpoises that every Servant may
appear as jolly as the late Bishop of _Winchester's_ Porter at
_Chelsea_.

"The News-Papers however inform us, that the Spirit of Hospitality has
not quite forsaken us; for three or four of them tell us, that several
of the Gentry are gone down to their respective Seats in the Country,
in order to keep their _Christmas_ in the Old Way, and entertain their
Tenants and Trades-folks a