must be
admitted, is in many respects wondrously dull, especially to those who
have been used to the brisk life of a great commercial or
pleasure-loving capital.

"Cornelius O'Dowd" paid a visit to Dublin in 1871 after a long absence,
and said some very pretty things about it. Never was the company or
claret better. Well, the fact was, that while the great and lamented
Cornelius was there he was feted and made much of. Lord Spencer gave him
a dinner, so did other magnates, and his sejour was one prolonged
feasting; but nevertheless the every-day life of the Irish capital is
awfully and wonderfully dull, as those who know it best, and have the
cream of such society as it offers, would in strict confidence admit.
From January to May there is an attempt at a "season," during the
earlier part of which the viceroy gives a great many entertainments.
These are remarkably well done, and the smaller parties are very
agreeable. But politics intervene here, as in everything else in
Ireland, to mar considerably the brilliancy of the vice-regal court.
When the Whigs are "in" the Tory aristocracy hold off from "the Castle,"
and _vice versa_. Dublin is generally much more brilliant under a Tory
viceroy, inasmuch as nine-tenths of the Irish peerage and landed gentry
support that side of politics. The vice-reign of the duke of Abercorn,
the last lord-lieutenant, will long be remembered as a period of
exceptional splendor in the annals of Dublin. He maintained the dignity
of the office in a style which had not been known for half a century,
and in this respect proved particularly acceptable to people of all
classes. Besides, he is a man of magnificent presence, and has a fitting
helpmate (sister of Earl Russell) and beautiful daughters; and it was
universally admitted that the round people had got into the round holes,
so far as the duke and duchess were concerned.

The lord-lieutenant's levees and drawing-rooms take place at night, and
are therefore much more cheerful than similar ceremonials at Buckingham
Palace. His Excellency kisses all the ladies presented to him. The
vice-regal salary is one hundred thousand dollars, with allowances, but
most viceroys spend a great deal more. There are in such a poor country,
where people have no sort of qualms about asking, innumerable claims
upon their purses.

The office of viceroy of Ireland is one which prime ministers find it no
easy task to fill. Just that kind of person is wanted for the