unknown in Alaska. There are probably not more than half a dozen
horses and mules in all Alaska--not so much because of the expense of
transportation and board, as lack of roads and the long, dark days and
months of winter, when people do not go out but very little. All the
packing is done in all sections of Alaska by natives carrying the packs
and supplies on their backs.

Sitka's most interesting object is the old Greek church, located in the
middle of the town, and also in the middle of the street. Its form is
that of a Greek cross, with a copper-covered dome, surmounted by a
chime-bell tower. The inside glitters with gold and rare paintings, gold
embroidered altar cloths and robes; quaint candelabra of solid silver are
suspended in many nooks, and an air of sacred quiet pervades the whole
building. There were no seats, for the Russians remain standing during
the worship. Service is held every Sabbath by a Russian priest in his
native language, and the church is still supported by the Russian
Government. Indeed, Russia does more for the advancement of religion than
does our own Government for Alaska.

The walk through the Indian ranch was but a repetition of the other
towns, only that they were wealthier and uglier, if possible, than the
other tribes. The Hydahs are very powerfully built, tall, large boned,
and stout.

Two days were spent in visiting and trafficking with these people. Then
the anchor came up, and soon a silver trail like a huge sea serpent moved
among the green isles, and followed us once more--now on the homeward
sail.

But one new place of importance was made on the home trip, and that was at

KILLISNOO.

When the steamer arrived, the evening after leaving Sitka, the city
policeman met us at the wharf and invited us to visit his hut. Of course,
he was a native, who expected to sell some curios. Over his door was the
following:

"By the Governor's commission,
And the company's permission,
I am made the grand tyhee
Of this entire illahee.

"Prominent in song and story,
I've attained the top of glory.
As Saginaw I am known to fame,
Jake is but my common name."

The time when he attained his fame and glory must have been when he and
his wife were both drunk one night, and he put the handcuffs on his wife
and could not get them off, and she had to go to Sitka to be released. He
appears in at least a dozen different suits while the steamer is in port,
and st