but is at variance with the display of fine linen of the
Caroline epoch. Or is there a sudden blast of wind from the east,
searching his rheumatic limbs to the very bone? he may button his coat
over his waistcoat, and he has then a double protection for the tenderest
chest. But if thus anxious for the chest, why not for the back also? Why
should there be two thicknesses of cloth or stuff over the one, and only a
single thickness, with some flimsy calico, over the other? In all this
there is an inconsistency. Our ancestors, who wore only one coat at a
time, had always a small mantle ready against any change of temperature;
and they wore it either appended to the neck, as in the days of James I.,
or more constantly on the shoulders, as in the time of Cromwell. The main
advantage of the waistcoat consists in its being light and permanently
worn,--but it should be made of the same stuff throughout, and we think it
might well be dispensed with altogether. If Kneller, Lely, Vandyke, and
Rubens could visit the earth again for a moment--and they were good judges
of what was, or what was not becoming--we have no doubt but they would be
unanimous against waistcoats.

We come, therefore, to our last remaining class of coats, and here we halt
with a hum of approbation: it would be hard indeed were we to pull the
modern dandy to pieces, and leave him no protection against the wintry
blast. Yes! the frock or surtout is good! we have little or nothing to say
against it,--much in its favour. Utility and elegance are at once seen
combined in this garment; it is warm, easy to wear, and comfortable it is
of graceful and dignified appearance, and it is becoming, to man at all
periods of his life. The frock-coat is nothing more than the ancient tunic
opened in front, and made to sit tight upon the upper part of the body:
the superior half of it shows the form of the wearer to advantage, and
imparts to it a due degree of manly rigidity, while the inferior half
partakes of the flowing folds of drapery, and gives warmth and covering
down to the very knees. Of all garments that are to have any degree of
freedom and looseness about them, the frock-coat is the best: it is good
for a man in almost any avocation, and may be made suitable for the common
business of life, as well as for the refinements of society. But then it
should not be worn open: it should be buttoned upon the breast. Place an
officer in his plain closely-buttoned undress coat by t