er, and the Shama, or second reader, and clerk. The ark is always
situated in the south-east end of the synagogue, to direct the worshipper
towards Jerusalem. The ark contains the law, written on vellum, fastened
to rollers, on the tops of which are little crowns of silver surrounded
by bells. The rolling and unrolling of the Law is a ceremony carefully
observed every Sabbath. In form the Bevis Marks synagogue much resembles
one of our old Nonconformist places of worship before they were improved
according to the requirements of modern taste. You pass into it from
behind some raised benches, on which several stout old gentlemen are
gesticulating with all their might. A little further on is the reading
desk, where the reader, with his hat on, his scarf round his shoulders,
is performing his appointed task--at one time singly, at another time
with the energetic assistance of the whole house. The readers wear black
gowns. The faces of the reader and the rabbi are alike turned to the
ark, before which a lamp perpetually burns. Of course there never are
pews, but benches, under which are lockers, in each of which the
worshipper deposits his scarf and prayer-book. In the synagogues of the
_Ashkenasim_ the benches nearest the ark, where the chief rabbi stands,
are considered the most honourable; but the Spanish and Portuguese Jews
make no difference in this respect. In the evening the synagogue is
lighted up by means of large tapers and old-fashioned gas-chandeliers.
In the service all join with more or less fervour. It consists entirely
of reading and singing prayers and certain portions of Scripture. No
sermon or lecture, except on Sabbaths and festivals, is necessary or
usual. The melodies used are ancient, and the reading is of a very
peculiar character, and not to be confounded with chanting or intoning as
known to Christians. Most of the congregation in Bevis Marks seem to
keep time with their bodies, as the sound rises and dies away. Also
every other sentence begins with a woah-wooah sound of a monotonous cast;
but all seem to enjoy it, especially the little Hebrew lads, who make
more noise than anybody else. Sometimes the people stand up, at other
times they sit down--they never kneel; but the stranger realizes little
solemnity while the service is performing, and many of the Jews are quite
ready to enter into a little secular conversation, or, if need be--as we
can testify from personal observation--to q