of whom three-fourths appeared to be Jews.
Compared with the villages we had passed, the place was a flourishing
one; and seemed quiet enough, though here again, as at Wilna and Riga,
there was something ominous in the air. Nearly all the business was in
the hands of the Jews; and their shops and houses, poor enough,
according to civilized notions, were far and away more prosperous
looking than those of their Russian neighbors; while their synagogue was
the most imposing block in the town, which is not saying much, perhaps.

We put up at the best inn in the place, where we found fresh horses
waiting us, as we had done at a village half-way on our day's march,
under the care of a couple of men in uniform. There was a telegraph wire
to Zostrov, and Mishka had sent word of our coming. I learned later
that, when the Grand Duke was in residence, a constant line of
communication was maintained with relays of horses for carriages or
riders between the Castle and the railroad.

I had wondered, when Mishka told me the arrangements for the journey,
why on earth motor cars weren't used over this last stage, but when I
found what the roads were like, when there were any roads at all, I
guessed it was wise to rely on horses, and on the light and strong
Russian travelling carriages that go gayly over the roughest track,
rather than on the best built motor procurable.

The landlord of the inn was a Jew, of course,--a lean old man with
greasy ear locks and a long beard, above which his hooked nose looked
like the beak of a dejected eagle. He welcomed us with cringing
effusion, and gave us of his best. I'd have thought the place filthy, if
I hadn't seen and smelt those Russian villages; but it was well
appointed in a way. The dinner-table, set in the one bedroom which we
were to share, so that we might dine privately and in state, was spread
with a cloth, which, though grimy to a degree, was of fine damask, and
displayed forks, spoons, and candlesticks of solid silver. The frowsy
sheets and coverlids on the three beds were of linen and silk. Evidently
Moses Barzinsky was a wealthy man; and his wife,--a fat dame, with beady
eyes and a preposterous black wig,--served us up as good a meal as I've
ever tasted. I complimented her on it when she brought in the samovar;
for here, in the wilds, it didn't seem to matter about keeping up my
pretended ignorance of the language. She was flattered, and assumed
quite a motherly air towards me; she