ws in a
portrait the Queen's flowing sleeves with mediaeval lines, clasped by a
broad band between elbow and shoulder, and then _pushed up_ until the
sleeve forms an ugly puff. A monstrous fashion, this, and one soon to
appear in a thousand mad forms. Its first vicious departure is that
small puffy, senselessly insinuated line between arm-hole and top of
sleeve in garments for men as well as women.

Skirts button from point of basque to feet just before we see them, in
the seventeenth century, parting down the front and separating to show a
petticoat. In Queen Elizabeth's time the acme of this style was reached
by Spanish women as we see in Velasquez's portraits. Gradually the
overskirt is looped back, (at first only a few inches), and tied with
narrow ribbons.

PLATE XXIV

Mrs. Vernon Castle in Winter afternoon costume, one which
is so suited to her type and at the same time conservative
as to outline and detail, that it would have charm whether
in style or not.

[Illustration: _Victor Georg--Chicago_
_Mrs. Vernon Castle in Afternoon Costume--Winter_]

The second quarter of the seventeenth century shows the waist line drawn
in and bodice with skirts a few inches in depth. These skirts are the
hall-mark of a basque.

Very short, full coats flaring from under arms now appear.

After the skirt has been pushed back and held with ribbons, we find
gradually all fulness of upper skirt pushed to hips to form paniers, and
across the back to form a bustle effect, until we have the Marie
Antoinette type, late eighteenth century. Far more graceful and
_seduisant_ than the costume of Queen Elizabeth's time.

The figures presented by Marie Antoinette and her court, powdered wigs
and patches, paniers and enormous hats, surmounting the horsehair
erections, heavy with powder and grease, lace, ribbon flowers and
jewels, are quaint, delightful and diverting, but not to be compared
with the Greek or mediaeval lines in woman's costume.

Extremely extended skirts gave way to an interlude of full skirts, but
flowing lines in the eighteenth century English portraits.

The Directoire reaction towards simplicity was influenced by English
fashion.

Empire formality under classic influence came next. Then Victorian hoops
which were succeeded by the Victorian bustles, pantalets, black velvet
at throat and wrists, and lockets.

CHAPTER XVIII

EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

The eighteenth century is u