tter
were obese in their figures, and the mingled perspiration and filth
standing upon their skins were any thing but agreeable to the eye. The
two senoras, with these handmaids near them, were sitting in front of
the house, busily engaged in executing some needlework.

Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that she
had a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of the
night, and, if he found strange men in the house, he would be much
offended with her. She had therefore directed her _muchachas_ to sweep
out one of the deserted and half-ruined rooms on the opposite square,
to which we could remove our baggage, and in which we could lodge
during the night; and as soon as the necessary preparations were made,
we retired to our dismal apartment. The "compound of villanous smells"
which saluted our nostrils when we entered our dormitory for the night
augured unfavourably for repose. The place had evidently been the abode
of horses, cattle, pigs, and foul vermin of every description. But with
the aid of a dark-coloured tallow-candle, which gave just light enough
to display the murkiness and filth surrounding us, we spread our beds
in the cleanest places, and laid down to rest. Distance travelled, 18
miles.

CHAPTER III.

Armies of fleas
Leave the mission
Clover
Wild mustard
A carreta
Family travelling
Arrive at Pueblo de San Jose
Capt. Fisher
Description of the Pueblo
The embarcadero
Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo
Absence of architectural taste in California
Town squirrels
Fruit garden
Grapes
Tropical fruits
Gaming rooms
Contrast between California and American gamesters
Leave San Jose
Beautiful avenue
Mission of Santa Clara
Rich but neglected lands
Effects of a bad government
A senora on the road-side
Kindness of Californian women
Fast riding
Cruel treatment of horses
Arrive at the mission of San Francisco
A poor but hospitable family
Arrive at the town of San Francisco
W.A. Leidesdorff, Esq., American vice-consul
First view of the bay of San Francisco
Muchachos and Muchachas
Capt. Montgomery
U.S. sloop-of-war, Portsmouth
Town of San Francisco; its situation, appearance, population
Commerce of California
Extortion of the government and traders.

_September 19_.--Several Californians came into the mission during the
night or early this morning; among them the husban