h toilet, and a good breakfast, I braced
up for another day's baking in the boat.

[If I had been well and strong as usual the discomforts of such a journey
would not have seemed so much to me; but I was still weak from the effects
of the fever, and annoyed by a worrying toothache which there had been no
dentist to rid me of in our village.[31]]

Having paid and dismissed the boat's watchman, we started and traveled
till eleven to-day, when we stopped at this cotton-shed. When our dais was
spread and lunch laid out in the cool breeze, it seemed a blessed spot. A
good many negroes came offering chickens and milk in exchange for
tobacco, which we had not. We bought some milk with money.

A United States transport just now steamed by and the men on the guards
cheered and waved to us. We all replied but Annie. Even Max was surprised
into an answering cheer, and I waved my handkerchief with a very full
heart as the dear old flag we have not seen for so long floated by; but
Annie turned her back.

_Sunday, July 13, 1862. (Under a tree on the east bank of the
Mississippi.)_--Late on Saturday evening we reached a plantation whose
owner invited us to spend the night at his house. What a delightful thing
is courtesy! The first tone of our host's welcome indicated the true
gentleman. We never leave the oars with the watchman; Max takes those,
Annie and I each take a band-box, H. takes my carpet-sack, and Reeney
brings up the rear with Annie's. It is a funny procession. Mr. B.'s family
were absent, and as we sat on the gallery talking it needed only a few
minutes to show this was a "Union man." His home was elegant and tasteful,
but even here there was neither tea nor coffee.

About eleven we stopped here in this shady place. While eating lunch the
negroes again came imploring for tobacco. Soon an invitation came from the
house for us to come and rest. We gratefully accepted, but found the idea
of rest for warm, tired travelers was for us to sit in the parlor on stiff
chairs while the whole family trooped in, cool and clean in fresh toilets,
to stare and question. We soon returned to the trees; however, they
kindly offered corn-meal pound-cake and beer, which were excellent. If we
reach Fetler's Landing to-night, the Mississippi-River part of the journey
is concluded. Eight gunboats and one transport have passed us. Getting out
of their way has been troublesome. Our gentlemen's hands are badly
blistered.

_Tuesday, July 15, 1