shed. Each has two hands and ten fingers to clean, and washing those,
ends the whole matter! These are extreme cases, of course. Some live
decently, too. Some _few_ of the ruling classes, in luxury, perhaps. From
Cairo I traveled by rail to Ismalia, thence by the Suez Canal to Port
Said, where I spent the Sunday (October 3rd). On Tuesday I reached
Alexandria again. I there put up at a first-class hotel (for travelers
from civilized and refined nations can not enjoy themselves at inferior
hotels in Egypt), and stayed five days, until the next steamer sailed for
Brindisi. The hotel contained an excellent cafe, where ten intelligent and
refined ladies and four gentlemen, all natives of Austria, were engaged to
render music every evening for a whole year. One evening as I sat in the
cafe at my supper, a poor boy came in to sell flowers; for what we must
pay in this country for a drink, I bought a bouquet almost as large as a
bucket, and when the next lady came to collect for the music, I gave her
the bouquet as a present to the whole company. It was worth more than an
introduction to the entire party, and for the balance of my stay I was
always well entertained, and was kindly informed of anything that I asked
in regard to the manners and customs of oriental life. The people of every
nation under the sun, travel in Egypt in the habits of their own peculiar
national costumes--the Turk with his turban, the Greek with his red cap,
and the Arabians, East Indians, Russians, and all the nations of Western
Europe are represented here, all wearing their own peculiar styles and
fashions. The money too is a mixture of the coins of a dozen different
countries. None except the poorest women will come out of their houses
without having their faces covered with thick black veils.
On the "Home-Stretch."
I do not know where I was the happiest, when I reached the coasts of Italy
and saw dear Europe again, when I reached Paris, or when I landed at New
York and was finally again ushered into the sweet scenes of home! But I
remember well that I left no city with so much regret as Paris. How I
watched to see the last glimmering rays of its ten thousand gas-jets, as
our train moved away at the silent midnight hour of October 22nd.
I had stopped at Milan to see the grand peagent of Emperor William of
Germany, and King Victor Emanuel of Italy, with a retinue of some 22,000
militia, with which they held a military drill, and saw the illumi
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