ven be
quite hot. They are excellent when split in two and broiled; serve hot
or cold apple sauce with them. Apple fritters also are acceptable with
sausages.

=Smelts, Broiled.=--Clean thoroughly six medium-sized smelts; split them
down the back; rub a little oil over them; place them on a double
broiler, and broil. When done, serve with _sauce tartare_ (which see).

=Smelts, Fried.=--Thoroughly clean the smelts, leaving the heads on; dip
them in beaten egg; roll them in fine cracker dust, and fry in very hot
fat; garnish with parsley and lemons, quartered, and send to table with
=sauce tartare= (which see).

=Squabs= are very nice broiled, but are at their best served as
follows;--Select a pair of plump birds; clean them, cut off the legs,
and remove the heads without breaking or tearing the neck skin; insert
the forefinger in it, and separate the skin over the breast from the
flesh; fill this with a nicely-seasoned bread stuffing, and fasten the
loose end of the neck to the back. Place a thin wide slice of bacon over
the breast, and fasten the ends with wooden toothpicks; put them in a
pan; dredge with a little flour, and bake to a delicate brown; serve
with fresh green peas.

Spring chicken may be treated in the same way.

=Steak, Tenderloin; Sauce Bearnaise.=--Cut a thick steak off the large end
of a beef tenderloin; flatten it out a little; rub olive-oil or butter
over it, and broil over a charcoal fire; place it on a hot dish, add a
little pepper and salt, and serve with sauce Bearnaise.

=Sauce Bearnaise.=--Reduce a gallon of strong, clear soup to a quart by
constant boiling. Beat up the yolks of four eggs; pour them into a
buttered saucepan, and add gradually--whisking all the time--the reduced
soup, a tablespoonful of strong garlic vinegar (or, if preferred, plain
vinegar, and the expressed juice of garlic or shallots), pepper, salt,
and a little lemon juice. Stir with a wooden spoon.

Care must be exercised not to add the soup while hot to the eggs, or it
will curdle, and yet do not add it cold.

=Steak, Sirloin; Sauce Bordelaise.=--Select a steak cut from the best part
of the sirloin; trim it neatly; rub a little oil over it, and broil over
a charcoal fire; serve with the following sauce:

=Sauce Bordelaise= is easiest made as follows: Chop up one medium onion,
or, better still, two shallots; fry them in butter until brown; add a
pint of strong clear soup or beef gravy, half a pint of claret or whi