we
began to cross the river, which was not over four feet in the deepest
part. It was here Mr. Lawes crossed when he first visited the inland
tribes; so now, led by Ruatoka, we were on his track. The moon was often
hidden by dark clouds, so we had some difficulty in keeping to the path.
We pressed on, as we were anxious to get to a deserted village which Mr.
Goldie knew to breakfast. We reached the village about six, and after we
had partaken of breakfast we set off for the mountains. When we had gone
about four miles the road became more uneven. Wallabies were not to be
seen, and soon we were in a valley close by the river, which we followed
for a long way, and then began to ascend. We climbed it under a burning
sun, Ruatoka calling out, _Tepiake_, _tepiake_, _tepiake_ (Friends,
friends, friends). Armed natives soon appeared on the ridge, shouting,
_Misi Lao_, _Misi Lao_. Ruatoka called back, _Misi Lao_ (Mr. Lawes), and
all was right--spears were put away and they came to meet us, escorting
us to a sort of reception-room, where we all squatted, glad to get in the
shade from the sun. We were now about 1100 feet above the sea level. We
were surprised to see their houses built on the highest tree-tops they
could find on the top of the ridge. One of the teachers remarked, "Queer
fellows these; not only do they live on the mountain tops, but they must
select the highest trees they can find for their houses." We were very
soon friends; they seemed at ease, some smoking tobacco, others chewing
betel-nuts. I changed my shirt, and when those near me saw my white skin
they raised a shout that soon brought the others round. Bartering soon
began--taro, sugar-cane, sweet yams, and water were got in exchange for
tobacco, beads, and cloth.

After resting about two hours, we proceeded to the next village, five
miles further along the ridge. Some of our party were too tired to
accompany us; they remained where we expected to camp for the night.
After walking some miles, we came unexpectedly on some natives. As soon
as they saw us they rushed for their spears, and seemed determined to
dispute our way. By a number of signs--touching our chins with our right
hands, etc.--they understood we were not foes, so they soon became
friendly. They had their faces blackened with soot, plumbago, and gum,
and then sprinkled over with white; their mouths and teeth were in a
terrible mess from chewing the betel-nut. On our leaving the