.

[62] Was it here, or in the Ospedale dei Trovatelli close to S. Michele
in Borgo? cf. Tronci, p. 179.

[63] See p. 95.

[64] Crowe and Cavalcaselle, _op. cit_, vol. i. p. 146, note.

[65] See _Pisa_. da I.B. Supino, 1905, p. 43.

[66] See p. 91.

[67] Mr. Carmichael (_On the Old Road through France to Florence_, p.
224) says it must have been worth L30,000 of our money.

[68] Let me refer the reader again to Mr. William Heywood's exhaustive
work on Italian mediaeval games, _Palio and Ponte_, Methuen, 1904.

[69] See also F. Tribolati, _Il Gioco del Ponte_, Firenze, 1877, p. 5.

[70] Many of these banners are hung in the great Salone--the first room
you enter on the first floor of the Museo.

[71] All the coverings and armour are illustrated in the _Oplomachia
Pisana_ of Camillo Borghi. (Lucca, 1713.)

[72] There is a rich literature of poems and _Relazioni_, etc., on the
_Gioco del Ponte_.

[73] F. Tribolati, _Il Gioco del Ponte_, Firenze, 1877. See also
Heywood, _op. cit._ p. 136.

[74] Yet it is said that St. Peter himself came to Pisa from Antioch,
and founded the Church of S. Pietro in Grado, and consecrated Pierino
first bishop of Pisa; cf. Tronci, _op. cit._ p. 3.

[75] Tronci, _op. cit._ p. 23.

[76] He said palace, and palace it may be, for the baths are a quarter
of a mile away.

[77] So a nineteenth-century writer calls it. Leopardi, too, cannot find
words enough to express its beauty: "Questo Lung' Arno e uno spetaccolo
cosi bello cosi ampio cosi magnifico," etc.

[78] It was in S. Sebastiano that Ruggiero condemned Count Ugolino and
his sons.

[79] Tronci, _op. cit._ p. 30.

[80] Tronci, op. cit. p. 343.

VII. LIVORNO[81]

It was only after many days spent in the Pineta, those pinewoods that go
down to the sea at Gombo, where the silent, deserted shore, strewn with
sea-shells and whispering with grass, stretches far away to the Carrara
hills, that very early one morning I set out for Livorno, that port
which has taken the place of the old Porto Pisano,[82] so famous through
the world of old. Leaving Pisa by the Porta a Mare, I soon came to S.
Pietro a Grado, a lonely church among the marshes, that once, as I
suppose, stood on the seashore. It was here St. Peter, swept out of his
course by a storm on his way from Antioch, came ashore before setting
out again for Naples, entering Italy first, then, on the shores of
Etruria. So the tale goes; but the present church seems t