ng beyond the city gate. Thus alone in this place of
death Pisa lives, ah! not in the desolate streets of the modern city,
but fading on the walls of her Campo Santo, a ghost among ghosts,
immortalised by an alien hand.

Coming last of all to the greatest wonder of the Piazza, it is really
with surprise you find the Campanile so beautiful, perhaps the most
beautiful tower of Italy. It is like a lily leaning in the wind, it is
like the slanting horn of an unicorn, it is like an ivory Madonna that
the artist has not had the heart to carve since the ivory was so fair.
Begun in 1174, it was designed by Bonannus. He made it all of white
marble, which has faded now to the colour of old ivory. Far away at the
top of the tower live the great bells, and especially La
Pasquareccia,[61] founded in 1262, stamped with a relief of the
Annunciation, for it used to ring the Ave. I think there can be no
reasonable doubt that the lean of the Tower is due to some terrible
accident which befell it after the third gallery had been built, for the
fourth gallery, added in 1204 by Benenabo, begins to rectify the
sinking; the rest, built in 1260, continues to throw the weight from the
lower to the higher side. As we know, the whole Piazza was a marsh, and
just as the foundations of the Tower of S. Niccolo have given a little,
so these sank much earlier, offering an unique opportunity to a
barbarian architect. There is, as has been often very rightly said, no
such thing as a freak in Italian art: its aim was beauty, very simple
and direct; nowhere in all its history will you find a grotesque such as
this. It is strange that a northerner, William of Innspruck, finished
the Tower the fifth storey in 1260; and it may well be that this Teuton
brought to the work something of a natural delight in such a thing as
this, and contrived to finish it, instead of beginning again. It seems
necessary to add that the tower would be more beautiful if it were
perfectly upright.

The Piazza del Duomo is full of interest. Almost opposite the Campanile,
at the corner of the Via S. Maria, is the Casa dei Trovatelli. It was
here, as I suppose,[62] that the Pisans built that hospital and chapel
to S. Giorgio after the great day of Montecatini.[63] Not far away,
behind the Via Torelli in Via Arcevescovado, is the archbishop's palace,
with a fine courtyard. If we follow the Via Torelli a little, we pass,
on the right, the Oratory of S. Ranieri, the patron saint of Pisa