ound
dishes, and for warming cold scraps: it is easily heated, and causes
no material expenditure of fuel.

1031. The Saucepan.

When we come to speak of the Saucepan, we have to consider the claims
of a very large, ancient, and useful family. There are large
saucepans, dignified with the name of Boilers, and small saucepans,
which come under the denomination of Stewpans. There are few kinds of
meat or fish which the Saucepan will not receive, and dispose of in a
satisfactory manner; and few vegetables for which it is not adapted.

When rightly used, it is a very economical servant, allowing nothing
to be lost; that which escapes from the meat while in its charge forms
broth, or may be made the basis of soups. Fat rises upon the surface
of the water, and may be skimmed off; while in various stews it
combines, in an eminent degree, what we may term the _fragrance_ of
cookery, and the _piquancy_ of taste. The French are perfect masters
of the use of the Stewpan. And we shall find that, as all cookery is
but an aid to digestion, the operations of the Stewpan resemble the
action of the stomach very closely. The stomach is a close sac, in
which solids and fluids are mixed together, macerated in the gastric
juice, and dissolved by the aid of heat and motion, occasioned by the
continual contractions and relaxations of the coats of the stomach
during the action of digestion. This is more closely resembled by the
process of stewing than by any other of our culinary methods.

1032. Various Processes of Cooking.

1033. Utility of the Kitchen.

"In the hands of an expert cook," says Majendie, "alimentary
substances are made almost entirely to change their nature, their
form, consistence, odour, savour, colour, chemical composition, &c.;
everything is so modified, that it is often impossible for the most
exquisite sense of taste to recognise the substance which makes up
the basis of certain dishes. The greatest utility of the kitchen
consists in making the food agreeable to the senses, and rendering
it easy of digestion."

1034. Theory of Cooking.

To some extent the claims of either process of cooking depend upon the
taste of the individual. Some persons may esteem the peculiar flavour
of fried meats, while others will prefer broils or stews. It is
important, however, to understand the _theory_ of each method of
cooking, so that