and 28 per cent. according to Wallace--a difference that may
be accounted for by supposing a difference in the fatness of the meat,
duration and degree of heat, &c., employed.

1068. Boiling.

This most simple of culinary processes is not often performed in
perfection; it does not require quite so much nicety and attendance as
roasting; to skim your pot well, and keep it really boiling, or
rather, simmering, all the while--to know how long is required for
doing the joint, &c., and to take it up at the critical moment when it
is done enough--comprehends almost the whole art and mystery. This,
however, demands a patient and perpetual vigilance, of which,
unhappily, few persons are capable.

The cook must take especial care that the water really boils all the
while she is cooking, or she will be deceived in the time; and make up
a sufficient fire (a frugal cook will manage with much less fire for
boiling than she uses for roasting) at first, to last all the time,
without much mending or stirring, and thereby save much trouble. When
the pot is coming to a boil, there will always, from the cleanest meat
and clearest water, rise a scum to the top of it; proceeding partly
from the foulness of the meat, and partly from the water: this must be
carefully taken off, as soon as it rises. On this depends the good
appearance of all boiled things--an essential matter.

When you have skimmed well, put in some cold water, which will throw
up the rest of the scum. The oftener it is skimmed, and the clearer
the surface of the water is kept, the cleaner will be the meat. If let
alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the meat, which, instead of
looking delicately white and nice, will have that coarse appearance we
have too often to complain of, and the butcher and poulterer will be
blamed for the carelessness of the cook, in not skimming her pot with
due diligence.

Many put in milk, to make what they boil look white, but this does
more harm than good; others wrap it up in a cloth; but these are
needless precautions; if the scum be attentively removed, meat will
have a much more delicate colour and finer flavour than it has when
muffled up. This may give rather more trouble--but those we wish to
excel in their art must only consider how the processes of it can be
most perfectly performed: a cook who has a proper pride and pleasure
in her business will make this