head of Languedoc, had brought them over the mountains
by such ways that they were not much incommoded with the snow; for where
they met with snow in any quantity, they said it was frozen hard enough
to bear them and their horses. We sent for this guide, who told us he
would undertake to carry us the same way, with no hazard from the snow,
provided we were armed sufficiently to protect ourselves from wild
beasts; for, he said, in these great snows it was frequent for some
wolves to show themselves at the foot of the mountains, being made
ravenous for want of food, the ground being covered with snow. We told
him we were well enough prepared for such creatures as they were, if he
would insure us from a kind of two-legged wolves, which we were told we
were in most danger from, especially on the French side of the mountains.
He satisfied us that there was no danger of that kind in the way that we
were to go; so we readily agreed to follow him, as did also twelve other
gentlemen with their servants, some French, some Spanish, who, as I said,
had attempted to go, and were obliged to come back again.

Accordingly, we set out from Pampeluna with our guide on the 15th of
November; and indeed I was surprised when, instead of going forward, he
came directly back with us on the same road that we came from Madrid,
about twenty miles; when, having passed two rivers, and come into the
plain country, we found ourselves in a warm climate again, where the
country was pleasant, and no snow to be seen; but, on a sudden, turning
to his left, he approached the mountains another way; and though it is
true the hills and precipices looked dreadful, yet he made so many tours,
such meanders, and led us by such winding ways, that we insensibly passed
the height of the mountains without being much encumbered with the snow;
and all on a sudden he showed us the pleasant and fruitful provinces of
Languedoc and Gascony, all green and flourishing, though at a great
distance, and we had some rough way to pass still.

We were a little uneasy, however, when we found it snowed one whole day
and a night so fast that we could not travel; but he bid us be easy; we
should soon be past it all: we found, indeed, that we began to descend
every day, and to come more north than before; and so, depending upon our
guide, we went on.

It was about two hours before night when, our guide being something
before us, and not just in sight, out rushed three monstrous wolv