whole journey.

As I have troubled you with none of my sea journals, so I shall trouble
you now with none of my land journals; but some adventures that happened
to us in this tedious and difficult journey I must not omit.

When we came to Madrid, we, being all of us strangers to Spain, were
willing to stay some time to see the court of Spain, and what was worth
observing; but it being the latter part of the summer, we hastened away,
and set out from Madrid about the middle of October; but when we came to
the edge of Navarre, we were alarmed, at several towns on the way, with
an account that so much snow was falling on the French side of the
mountains, that several travellers were obliged to come back to
Pampeluna, after having attempted at an extreme hazard to pass on.

When we came to Pampeluna itself, we found it so indeed; and to me, that
had been always used to a hot climate, and to countries where I could
scarce bear any clothes on, the cold was insufferable; nor, indeed, was
it more painful than surprising to come but ten days before out of Old
Castile, where the weather was not only warm but very hot, and
immediately to feel a wind from the Pyrenean Mountains so very keen, so
severely cold, as to be intolerable and to endanger benumbing and
perishing of our fingers and toes.

Poor Friday was really frightened when he saw the mountains all covered
with snow, and felt cold weather, which he had never seen or felt before
in his life. To mend the matter, when we came to Pampeluna it continued
snowing with so much violence and so long, that the people said winter
was come before its time; and the roads, which were difficult before,
were now quite impassable; for, in a word, the snow lay in some places
too thick for us to travel, and being not hard frozen, as is the case in
the northern countries, there was no going without being in danger of
being buried alive every step. We stayed no less than twenty days at
Pampeluna; when (seeing the winter coming on, and no likelihood of its
being better, for it was the severest winter all over Europe that had
been known in the memory of man) I proposed that we should go away to
Fontarabia, and there take shipping for Bordeaux, which was a very little
voyage. But, while I was considering this, there came in four French
gentlemen, who, having been stopped on the French side of the passes, as
we were on the Spanish, had found out a guide, who, traversing the
country near the