rful shoulder to the wheel, that the
work began to go forward. For these mountains meant tunnels, and rock
cuts, and bridges, and _cash_. Leaving Whitehall, we enter a tunnel
near the old steamboat landing, cross a marsh, which must have
suggested the beginning of the Pilgrim's Progress, for it seemed
almost bottomless, and pass along the narrow end of the lake, still
marked by light-houses, where steamers once struggled and panted "like
fish out of water," fulfilling the Yankee's ambition of running a boat
on a heavy dew. Then winding in and out along the shore, we proceed
to--

=Ticonderoga=, 23 miles from Whitehall. Here terminates the first
range of the Adirondacks, to which we have already referred, viz.:
Mount Defiance. Steamers connect with the train at this point on Lake
Champlain, also with a railroad for Lake George. Near the station we
get a view of old Port Ticonderoga, where Ethan Allen breakfasted
early one morning, and said grace in a brief and emphatic manner. The
lake now widens into a noble sheet of water; we cross the Lake George
outlet, enter a deep rock-cut, which extends a distance of about 500
feet, and reach Crown Point thirty-four miles north of Whitehall.
Passing along the shore of Bulwagga Bay we come to--

=Port Henry=, 40 miles from Whitehall. A few miles further the
railroad leaves the lake at Mullen Brook, the first departure since
we left Whitehall, and we are greeted with cultivated fields and a
charming landscape.

=Westport=, 51 miles from Whitehall, is the railroad station for--

=Elizabethtown=, the county seat of Essex. It is about eight miles
from the station, nestled among the mountains. A county consisting
mostly of mountain scenery could have no happier location for a
head-centre. Elizabethtown forms a most delightful gateway to the
Adirondacks either by stage route or pedestrian tour.

* * *

A health to Ethan Allen and our commander Gates;
To Lincoln and to Washington whom every Tory hates;
Likewise unto our Congress, God grant it long to reign,
Our country's right and justice forever to maintain.

_Saratoga Revolutionary Ballad._

* * *

A short distance north of Westport we enter the well-cultivated
Bouquet Valley, and after a pleasant run come to Wellsboro Falls,
where we enter seven miles of rock cutting. The road is about 90 feet
above the lake, and the cuts in many places from 90 to 100 feet high.
After leaving Red-Rock cut, we pass t