the subject-
matter was the feelings of Italians towards their rulers; in both that
feeling was expressed legibly, though in diverse fashions; and from both
one and the same lesson--that lesson, which I have sought to express in
these loose sketches of mine--may be learned easily. Let me first, then,
write of these pictures as I saw them at the time, so that my moral may
speak for itself to those who care to learn it.
The 12th of April is the anniversary of Pio Nono's return to Rome from
Gaeta, that refuge of destitute sovereigns. It is also, by a strange
coincidence, the anniversary of the day on which his Holiness and General
Goyon narrowly escaped being killed by the falling of a scaffold, from
which they were inspecting the repairs at the church of St Agnese. On
that day, in honour of the doubly joyful event, the Pope went to
celebrate mass at the convent of St Agnese. The time was one when a
popular demonstration in favour of the Pope was urgently required. It
was in fact the beginning of the end. Victor Emmanuel was about to enter
Bologna as king; the news of the Sicilian insurrection had just reached
Rome; the Imperial Government had sent one of its periodical intimations,
that the French occupation could not be prolonged indefinitely; and
General De La Moriciere had assumed the command of the Papal army, on his
ill-fated and Quixotic crusade. At such a time it was deemed necessary
to show Europe, that the Pope still reigned in the hearts of his people,
and every effort was made to secure a demonstration. Government clerks
and official personages received orders to be present at the ceremony;
and all persons, over whom the Priests had influence, were urged to
attend and swell the crowd. And yet what came of it all? Along the road
between the Convent of Santa Agnese and the Porta Pia, where the great
demonstrations took place some weeks ago, there was little sign of crowd
or excitement. The day was chilly and cheerless; but the chilliness of
the wind itself precluded the idea of rain, so that it was not the
weather which deterred the concourse of the faithful. The Patrizzi
Villa, just outside the gate, had a few festoons hung over the garden
wall, which fronts the road; but one of the Patrizzi family, I should
mention, is a Cardinal. The villas on the road exhibited no decorations
or signs of festivity whatever. Indeed, I only observed three houses in
all which had placed hangings before their window
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