of another man. Lest he should in daylight
chance upon his abhorred and outcast brethren, or any of them, he only
ventured out at night, and lived on what he could find in other people's
gardens or orchards. Happening one night to be discovered in the act of
laying in a provision of corn, he was mistaken for a thief, and received
an arrow from the owner of the provision. He crawled back, mortally
wounded, to his grotto, and never came out again except in the shape of
relics.
The convent of Katholikon, long abandoned, did not invite entrance: a
Venetian bridge spans the ravine, and gave access to the chapel for the
hermits whose little dens still remain on the other side, the denizens
having long since deserted them. Down by the sea are some Venetian
ruins, a boat-house, and some masonry of a landing. I advise travellers
who will visit Katholikon, its cave and hermitages, to order a boat
round from Canea to meet them at this place, and then go home in
comfort,--the only point to be gained from going back by land being a
more thorough experience of Cretan roads. To those who intend seeing the
rest of the island, opportunities will not lack for this; to others, the
knowledge is superfluous. A careful horse will make his way down, but he
ought to be strong to get up. Mine was not; and, in climbing, his force
or his footing failed him, and over he went backwards, and I narrowly
escaped being crushed under him. Stunned and half bewildered by the
fall,--for I had struck on my back amongst sharp stones, with one of
which my head had made intimate acquaintance,--I managed, I know not
how, to extricate myself from the flourish of legs; the horse lying more
helpless than myself in the narrow path between two slopes of stone, and
vainly plunging to get over on his side. He finally completed his
somerset, to the confusion of the line of equestrians behind, the
nearest of whom were speedily dismounted; and the chances of a kicking
match among the quadrupeds were good for a moment, until two prompt
Arabs, in attendance on Miss T----, restored the disorderly elements to
peace. Sore, bleeding, and faint, I lay awhile on a bed of wild thyme,
until I began to feel the good effects of a cordial administered by the
_pateras_, and we resumed our file, most of the party returning directly
to Canea,--myself, with a companion who served as guide and interpreter,
passing the night at the convent, the good Hegoumenos being urgent in
his entreat
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