from Kilid Bahr
plateau, and is entirely commanded by the high ridge to the North of it.
To land there would be to enter a defile without first crowning the
heights.

Between Gaba Tepe and Cape Helles, the point of the Peninsula, the
coastline consists of cliffs from 100 to 300 feet high. But there are,
in many places, sandy strips at their base. Opinions differ but I
believe myself the cliffs are not unclimbable. I thoroughly believe also
in going for at least one spot that _seems_ impracticable.

Sailing Southwards we are becoming more and more conscious of the
tremendous bombardment going on in the Straits. Now and then, too, we
can see a huge shell hit the top of Achi Baba and turn it into the
semblance of a volcano. Everyone excited and trying to look calm.

At 4 p.m., precisely, we rounded Cape Helles. I had promised de Robeck
not to take his fastest cruiser, fragile as an egg, into the actual
Straits, but the Captain and the Commander (Cameron and Rosomore), were
frightfully keen to see the fight, and I thought it fair to allow one
mile as being the _mouth_ of the Straits and not _the_ Straits. Before
we had covered that mile we found ourselves on the outskirts of--dream
of my life--a naval battle! Nor did the reality pan out short of my
hopes. Here it was; we had only to keep on at thirty knots; in one
minute we should be in the thick of it; and who would be brave enough to
cry halt!

The world had gone mad; common sense was only moonshine after all; the
elephant and the whale of Bismarckian parable were at it tooth and nail!
Shells of all sizes flew hissing through the skies. Before my very eyes,
the graves of those old Gods whom Christ had risen from the dead to
destroy were shaking to the shock of Messrs. Armstrong's patent thunder
bolts!

Ever since the far-away days of Afghanistan and Majuba Hill friends have
been fond of asking me what soldiers feel when death draws close up
beside them. Before he charged in at Edgehill, Astley (if my memory
serves me) exclaimed, "O, God, I've been too busy fixing up this battle
to think much about you, but, for Heaven's sake, don't you go and
forget about me," or words to that effect.

The Yankee's prayer for fair play just as he joined issue with the
grizzly bear gives another glimpse of these secrets between man and his
Maker. As for myself, there are two moments; one when I think I would
not miss the show for millions; another when I think "what an ass I am
to