horse
speeds his way, at almost every point--showing the progress of
civilization, and the refinement of the nineteenth century.

We arrived at Paris a few minutes past twelve o'clock at night, when,
according to our tickets, we should have been there at nine. Elihu
Burritt, who had been in Paris some days, and who had the arrangements
there pretty much his own way, was at the station waiting the arrival of
the train, and we had demonstrated to us, the best evidence that he
understood his business. In no other place on the whole route had the
affairs been so well managed; for we were seated in our respective
carriages and our luggage placed on the top, and away we went to our
hotels without the least difficulty or inconvenience. The champion of an
"Ocean Penny Postage" received, as he deserved, thanks from the whole
company for his admirable management.

The silence of the night was only disturbed by the rolling of the wheels
of the omnibus, as we passed through the dimly lighted streets. Where, a
few months before was to be seen the flash from the cannon and the
musket, and the hearing of the cries and groans behind the barricades,
was now the stillness of death--nothing save here and there a _gens
d'arme_ was to be seen going his rounds in silence.

The omnibus set us down at the hotel Bedford, Rue de L'Arend, where,
although near one o'clock, we found a good supper waiting for us; and,
as I was not devoid of an appetite, I did my share towards putting it
out of the way.

The next morning I was up at an early hour, and out on the Boulevards to
see what might be seen. As I was passing from the Bedford to the Place
de La Concord, all at once, and as if by some magic power, I found
myself in front of the most splendid edifice imaginable, situated at the
end of the Rue Nationale. Seeing a number of persons entering the church
at that early hour, and recognising among them my friend the President
of the Oberlin (Ohio) Institute, and wishing not to stray too far from
my hotel before breakfast, I followed the crowd and entered the
building. The church itself consisted of a vast nave, interrupted by
four pews on each side, fronted with lofty fluted Corinthian columns
standing on pedestals, supporting colossal arches, bearing up cupolas,
pierced with skylights and adorned with compartments gorgeously gilt;
their corners supported with saints and apostles in _alto relievo_. The
walls of the church were lined with rich marb