ed to be made entirely of metal probably until the time of
Aurelian, nor have there been any instances found in Herculaneum and
Pompeii of the silken thread with a gold coating.

These examples will suffice to show that it was not usually the
_material_ of the ancient garments which gave them so high a value,
but the ornamental embellishments with which they were afterwards
invested by the needle.

The Medes and Babylonians seem to have been most highly celebrated for
their stuffs and tapestries of various sorts which were figured by the
needle; the Egyptians certainly rivalled, though they did not surpass
them; and the Greeks seem also to have attained a high degree of
excellence in this pretty art. The epoch of embroidery amongst the
Romans went as far back as Tarquin, to whom the Etruscans presented a
tunic of purple enriched with gold, and a mantle of purple and other
colours, "tels qu'en portoient les rois de Perse et de Lydie." But
soon luxury banished the wonted austerity of Rome; and when Caesar
first showed himself in a habit embroidered and fringed, this
innovation appeared scandalous to those who had not been alarmed at
any of his real and important innovations.

We have referred in a former chapter to the practice of sending
garments as presents, as marks of respect and friendship, or as
propitiatory or deprecatory offerings. And the illustrious ladies of
the classical times had such a prophetical talent of preparation, that
they were ever found possessed, when occasion required, of store of
garments richly embroidered by their own fair fingers, or under their
auspices. Of this there are numerous examples in Homer.

When Priam wishes to redeem the body of Hector, after preparing other
propitiatory gifts,

"----he open'd wide the sculptur'd lids
Of various chests, whence mantles twelve he took
Of texture beautiful; twelve single cloaks;
As many carpets, with as many robes;
To which he added vests an equal store."

When Telemachus is about to leave Menelaus--

"The beauteous queen revolv'd with careful eyes
Her various textures of unnumber'd dyes,
And chose the largest; with no vulgar art
Her own fair hands embroider'd every part;
Beneath the rest it lay divinely bright,
Like radiant Hesper o'er the gems of night."

That much of this work was highly beautiful may be inferred from the
description of the robe of Ulysses:--

"In the rich woof a hound,