han a study. Above and beyond all, stood out the wild inhabitants
of the Atlas, and men from the Sus, wearing black camel's-hair jellabs
with a great russet-red or saffron-yellow patch let into the backs of
them. The origin of this striking "badge" is not known, but the jellabs
themselves looked absolutely in keeping with the lawless ruffians, on
whose shoulders they hung, and the wild blotch of bizarre colour was
"just themselves."

Bay, is the colour which in a horse the Moor chooses first--the pearl of
colours, sober and most hardy; while a light chestnut brings ill luck,
though a dark chestnut is the colour of the wind, can "travel," and was
Mohammed's favourite. A horse must have the colour of its saddle in
harmony with itself--an apple-green saddle for a black horse, scarlet for
a white, the whole beautifully worked and embossed in silk, and when on
the horse's back, should be set, perhaps, upon as many as _nine_
different coloured saddle-cloths, one on top of each other.

[Illustration: _Photo by A. Cavilla, Tangier._]

THE SULTAN'S GARDEN.

[_To face p. 344._]

Of all filthy quarters in the filthiest of cities, I think the Jewish
Quarter in Marrakesh has a fair chance of ranking first,--outside it,
rubbish, a manure-heap eighty feet high, which no one troubles to remove;
inside the walls, black mud, feet deep, streets which are sewers,
collections of dead dogs, rotting vegetables, refuse of all sorts;
amongst it all, a dirty people, callous beyond belief as regards
sanitation, with sore heads, sore eyes, matted rags. Not a butcher's
shop which is not black with flies and "high" with rotten meat: flies lie
upon every article of food.

And in the very vortex of this muck-heap--astounding to the
traveller--are content to live wealthy Jews, happy to flourish all their
lives shoulder to shoulder with unutterable squalor.

We went over a house belonging to a Jew millionaire, well built, lavishly
decorated, as luxurious as money and Morocco would permit, evidently the
pride of the whole family. Probably few of them went far outside the city
walls: they were born to the Mellah. His success as a trader might have
given the head of the house a country place in England, shady lawns, a
carriage and pair to drive in: he preferred his own muck-heap. But I
cannot conceive upon what he spent his money, other than the
glorification of the inside of his house.

The Sultan's palace looked deserted: it is long, however, si