and reduce a bit of navy plug to its lowest denomination. The smoke
curls lazily upward; the fire makes you warm and drowsy and again you
lie down--to again awaken with a sense of chilliness--to find the fire
burned low and daylight breaking. You have slept better than you would
in your own room at home. You have slept in an "Indian camp."

You have also learned the difference between such a simple shelter and
an open air bivouac under a tree or beside an old log.

Another easily made and very comfortable camp is the "brush shanty,"
as it is usually called in Northern Pennsylvania. The frame for such a
shanty is a cross-pole resting on two crotches about six feet high and
enough straight poles to make a foundation for the thatch. The poles
are laid about six inches apart, one end on the ground, the other on
the cross-pole, and at a pretty sharp angle. The thatch is made of the
fan-like boughs cut from the thrifty young hemlock and are to be laid
bottom upward and feather end down. Commence to lay them from the
ground and work up to the cross-pole, shingling them carefully as you
go. If the thatch be laid a foot in thickness and well done, the shanty
will stand a pretty heavy rain--better than the average bark roof,
which is only rainproof in dry weather.

A bark camp, however, may be a very neat sylvan affair, provided you
are camping where spruce or balsam fir may be easily reached, and in
the hot months when bark will "peel"; and you have a day in which to
work at a camp. The best bark camps I have ever seen are in the
Adirondacks. Some of them are rather elaborate in construction,
requiring two or more days' hard labor by a couple of guides. When the
stay is to be a long one and the camp permanent, perhaps it will pay.

As good a camp as I have ever tried--perhaps the best--is the
"shanty-tent" shown in the illustration. It is easily put up, is
comfortable, neat and absolutely rain-proof. Of course, it may be of
any required size; but, for a party of two, the following dimensions
and directions will be found all sufficient:

Firstly, the roof. This is merely a sheet of strong cotton cloth 9
feet long by 4 or 4 1/2 feet in width. The sides, of the same material,
to be 4 1/2 feet deep at front and 2 feet deep at the back. This gives
7 feet along the edge of the roof, leaving 2 feet for turning down at
the back end of the shanty. It will be seen that the sides must be "cut
bias," to compensate for the angle of the r