ntre of the
island has been hollowed out by the crater of the volcano into a
capacious basin, almost circular, and, excepting to the south,
where there is a huge cleft or rent, its sides or edges rise almost
perpendicular full eight hundred feet from the base. After some
trouble, carefully backing in with the swell, a landing was
effected on the south side, when a most extraordinary sight was
displayed to our view. Before us, in the hollow of the basin, was a
lake of yellow liquid, smoking hot, about a hundred yards in
diameter, as near as could be guessed. Around this, but chiefly
toward the north side, were numerous jets of steam spouting out of
the ground. A strong sulphurous smell pervaded the atmosphere, and
warned us what was to be expected from a nearer proximity to the
crater in active operation at the farther end of the lake, to
which, nothing daunted by its appearance, our party was determined
to penetrate. Our advance was made cautiously; the surface of the
ground was in some places soft and yielding, and we knew not to
what brimstone depths an unwary step might sink us. There were
little ravines to be crossed, which had to be first carefully
sounded. As we proceeded on the soft, crustaceous surface,
diminutive spouts of vapor would spit forth, as if to resent our
intrusion. In skirting the edge of the lake, its temperature and
taste were both tested; the former varied with the distance from
the seething bubbling going on at the extremity; in some places the
hand could be kept in, but 130 deg. was the highest registered, without
risk to the thermometer, by Mr. Lawrenson, assistant surgeon: the
taste may be imagined, but not described!

'Continuing our advance, the roaring and hissing became louder and
louder, as though a hundred locomotives were all blowing off
together, while the steam from the crater and numerous geysers
surrounding it was emitted in huge volumes, ascending full two
thousand feet in the air. Most fortunately it was a perfect calm,
or the fumes of the sulphur would alone have sufficed to stop our
progress; but there was also every reason to believe, judging from
the description I have by me of a former visit, that the volcano
was to-day in a more quiescent state than usual. Everywhere sulphur
was strewed around, an