learnt
later, that I was bound for Bulgaria with evil intentions: messages
from Montenegro for the undoing of Serbia. I was quite unaware at
the time that Prince Ferdinand and Prince Nikola were plotting
together. Arrived at Pirot it was obvious that I was considered
dangerous. I was stopped in the station by police and military
authorities, who had doubtless been warned of my arrival, and told
that I was not to go near the Bulgar frontier, much less cross it.
Only after some argument did they consent to let me stay two days in
the town. Then I was to leave for Belgrade by the early morning
train, and to make sure that I could not escape by any other route,
they confiscated my passport and said it should be returned to me at
the station when I left.

Tension between Serbia and Bulgaria was obviously extreme. By way of
warning, I was told that a Bulgar spy had just been caught and was
in prison. But I had come to see the carpet making and I saw it. The
carpets are very interesting. They are made in no other part of
Serbia and are in truth Bulgarian in origin. Pirot before its
annexation to Serbia in 1878 was an undoubtedly Bulgar district. Old
books of travel call Nish Bulgar. In Pirot a distinctly Bulgar cast
of countenance and build is to be seen. And the neighbouring
peasants play the bagpipe, the typical Bulgar instrument. The type
extends not only into the south of Serbia (of 1902), but in the east
spreads over the Timok. The population along the frontier and around
Zaitchar I found Bulgar and Roumanian, the flat-faced, heavily built
Bulgar with high cheekbones and lank black hair predominating--all
being Serbized, of course. Having seen the carpet making at Pirot, I
obediently appeared at the railway station at the appointed time as
bidden. Suddenly, the whole atmosphere changed. The same officials
who had received me so inimically now wanted me to stay! Having
first worn my quite respectable supply of patience almost
threadbare, the Serbs turned right round and did all they could to
efface first impressions. The whole thing seemed to me childish and
astonishing. But I profited largely by it and went the rest of my
way in comparative comfort.

By this time I had learnt that Serbia was in a state of intense
political tension, and that my ingenuous statement that I had come
straight from Cetinje had gone badly against me.

Stupid officials asked me so many leading questions that they
revealed far more than they