are
many varieties of spelling the name, but that is strictly in accordance
with other instances of the looseness of spelling usual with writers of
that era; as a general rule, _the printed form_ of an author's name
seldom varied, and may be accepted as the correct one.]

[Footnote 120: The term seems to have been applied to the article from
the pointed or _peaked_ edges of the lace which surrounded the stiff
pleated ruffs, and may be constantly seen in portraits of the era of
Elizabeth and James.]

[Footnote 121: Nat. Hist. lib. ix. 56. Snails are still a common dish in
Vienna, and are eaten with eggs.]

[Footnote 122: Dr. Lister published in the early part of the last
century an amusing poem, "The Art of Cookery, in imitation of 'Horace's
Art of Poetry.'"]

[Footnote 123: Genial. Dierum, II. 283, Lug. 1673. The writer has
collected in this chapter a variety of curious particulars on this
subject.]

[Footnote 124: The commentators have not been able always to assign
known names to the great variety of fish, particularly sea-fish, the
ancients used, many of which we should revolt at. One of their dainties
was a shell-fish, prickly like a hedgehog, called _Echinus_. They ate
the dog-fish, the star-fish, porpoises or sea-hogs, and even seals. In
Dr. Moffet's "Regiment of Diet," an exceeding curious writer of the
reign of Elizabeth, republished by Oldys, may be found an ample account
of the "sea-fish" used by the ancients.--Whatever the _Glociscus_ was,
it seems to have been of great size, and a shell-fish, as we may infer
from the following curious passage in Athenaeus. A father, informed that
his son is leading a dissolute life, enraged, remonstrates with his
pedagogue:--"Knave! thou art the fault! hast thou ever known a
philosopher yield himself so entirely to the pleasures thou tellest me
of?" The pedagogue replies by a Yes! and that the sages of the Portico
are great drunkards, and none know better than they _how to attack a
Glociscus_.]

[Footnote 125: Ben Jonson, in his "Staple of News," seems to have had
these passages in view when he wrote:--

A master cook! Why, he's the man of men
For a professor, he designes, he drawes.
He paints, he carves, he builds, he fortifies;
Makes citadels of curious fowl and fish.
Some he dry-dishes, some moats round with broths,
Mounts marrow-bones, cuts fifty-angled custards,
Bears bulwark pies, and for his outerworks
He raiseth ramparts of