outh along the coast of Africa. Off the cape were strange, oily
cross rips and currents on the surface of the sea; the flying-fish rose
in flocks before our bows; high mountains of peaks and flat table tops
thrust their summits into clouds; and along the coast the breakers
spouted like whales. For the first time, too, we began to experience
what our preconceptions had imagined as tropical heat. Heretofore we had
been hot enough, in all conscience, but the air had felt as though
wafted from an opened furnace door--dry and scorching. Now, although the
temperature was lower,[2] the humidity was greater. A swooning languor
was abroad over the spellbound ocean, a relaxing mist of enchantment.

My glasses were constantly clouding over with a fine coating of water
drops; exposed metal rusted overnight; the folds in garments accumulated
mildew in an astonishingly brief period of time. There was never even
the suggestion of chill in this dampness. It clung and enveloped like a
grateful garment; and seemed only to lack sweet perfume.

At this time, by good fortune, it happened that the moon came full. We
had enjoyed its waxing during our voyage down the Red Sea; but now it
had reached its greatest phase, and hung over the slumbering tropic
ocean like a lantern. The lazy sea stirred beneath it, and the ship
glided on, its lights fairly subdued by the splendour of the waters.
Under the awnings the ship's company lounged in lazy attitudes or
promenaded slowly, talking low voiced, cigars glowing in the splendid
dusk. Overside, in the furrow of the disturbed waters, the
phosphorescence flashed perpetually beneath the shadow of the ship.

The days passed by languidly and all alike. On the chart outside the
smoking-room door the procession of tiny German flags on pins marched
steadily, an inch at a time, towards the south. Otherwise we might as
well have imagined ourselves midgets afloat in a pond and getting
nowhere.

Somewhere north of the equator--before Father Neptune in ancient style
had come aboard and ducked the lot of us--we were treated to the
spectacle of how the German "sheep" reacts under a joke. Each nation has
its type of fool; and all, for the joyousness of mankind, differ. On the
bulletin board one evening appeared a notice to the effect that the
following morning a limited number of sportsmen would be permitted
ashore for the day. Each was advised to bring his own lunch, rifle, and
drinks. The reason alleged was that