ng of our visit, hundreds
of Chinese lanterns illuminated the spacious grounds. The most brilliant
feature of the entertainment was music rendered by a complete orchestra
of native musicians who used Hindoo instruments entirely different from
ours; but pianos, guitars and other instruments with which we are
acquainted, were also used. The younger prince was a great lover of
music, and maintained, at his own expense, a conservatory of music and a
large orchestra, giving instruction in music free of charge to any young
man who was peculiarly gifted in that line. He is also well versed in
Sanskrit literature, and has written several scientific works in
Sanskrit. Before I left he presented me with one of these works
containing his autograph, which is reproduced here as a sample of the
hand-writing of an educated Hindoo:

[Illustration: (dedication note)]

Our refreshments at the fete consisted of dainties prepared by native
cooks. Cream, rice, sugar, eggs, fish, flour, and spices were the chief
ingredients of the different courses. Champagne and other European
drinks were served with the courses, and after the repast we were
offered coffee, and the servants brought wash basins and towels. Finally
the major domo passed an urn-shaped golden goblet, placed on a gold
tray. In this goblet was a fine sponge soaked with attar of roses, which
costs about a dollar a drop, and in which the guests dipped the tips of
their fingers and moistened their foreheads and clothes. The least
contact with this attar causes a fragrance which lasts for months.

Neither on this occasion nor at any other festivity arranged by native
Hindoos were any of the women present or visible to us, although we knew
they were close enough to see us through windows or gratings. The men
themselves assisted in waiting on us, but tasted nothing in our
presence. When finally the carriages drove up and the guests parted each
one of them received a huge bouquet of beautiful, fragrant flowers.

[Illustration: RAJAH TAGORE.]

CHAPTER XXV.

Agriculture, Manufacture and Architecture--Wheat Growing--The
Farm Laborer--His Condition, Implements, etc. The
Taj-Mahal--Jugglers--Snake Charmers--From My Journal.

A large majority of the Hindoos are agriculturists. The staple crops are
wheat, rice, and different species of pease. The wheat production of
India exerts a great influence on the grain market of Europe, and is one
of the most dangerous competitors to