where the inn was a series of queer galleries open to the
night, with a great courtyard full of waggons and horses, and
"_velociferi_," and what not in the centre. It was bitter cold and very
wet, and we all walked into a bare room (mine!) with two immensely broad
beds on two deal dining-tables, a third great empty table, the usual
washing-stand tripod, with a slop-basin on it, and two chairs. And then
we walked up and down for three-quarters of an hour or so, while dinner,
or supper, or whatever it was, was getting ready. This was set forth (by
way of variety) in the old priest's bedroom, which had two more
immensely broad beds on two more deal dining-tables in it. The first
dish was a cabbage boiled in a great quantity of rice and hot water, the
whole flavoured with cheese. I was so cold that I thought it
comfortable, and so hungry that a bit of cabbage, when I found such a
thing floating my way, charmed me. After that we had a dish of very
little pieces of pork, fried with pigs' kidneys; after that a fowl;
after that something very red and stringy, which I think was veal; and
after that two tiny little new-born-baby-looking turkeys, very red and
very swollen. Fruit, of course, to wind up, and garlic in one shape or
another in every course. I made three jokes at supper (to the immense
delight of the company), and retired early. The brave brought in a bush
or two and made a fire, and after that a glass of screeching hot brandy
and water; that bottle of his being full of brandy. I drank it at my
leisure, undressed before the fire, and went into one of the beds. The
brave reappeared about an hour afterwards and went into the other;
previously tying a pocket-handkerchief round and round his head in a
strange fashion, and giving utterance to the sentiment with which this
letter begins. At five this morning we resumed our journey, still
through mud and rain, and at about eleven arrived at Piacenza; where we
fellow-passengers took leave of one another in the most affectionate
manner. As there was no coach on till six at night, and as it was a very
grim, despondent sort of place, and as I had had enough of diligences
for one while, I posted forward here in the strangest carriages ever
beheld, which we changed when we changed horses. We arrived here before
six. The hotel is quite French. I have dined very well in my own room on
the second floor; and it has two beds in it, screened off from the room
by drapery. I only use one to