or. The gingham is woven into various widths to suit umbrella frames
of different size, and along each edge of the fabric a border is formed
of large cords. As to alpaca, a dye-house is being built, not _more_ than
a "thousand miles" from Philadelphia on the plan of English dye-houses,
so that our home-made alpacas may be dyed as good and durable a black as
the gingham receives; for although nobody minds carrying an _old_
umbrella, nobody likes to carry a faded one. Although there are umbrellas
of blue, green and buff, the favorite hue seems to be black.

And now that we have all the materials together to make an umbrella, let
us go into a manufactory and see exactly how all the pieces are put
together.

First, here is the stick, which must be "mounted." By that you must
understand that there are two springs to be put in, the ferule put on the
top end, and if the handle is of other material than the stick, that must
be put on.

The ugliest of all the work is the cutting of the slots in which the
springs are put. These are first cut by a machine; but if the man who
operates it is not careful, he will get some of his fingers cut off. But
after the slot-cutting machine does its work, there is yet something to
be done by another man with a knife before the spring can be put in.
After the springs are set, the ferule is put on, and when natural sticks
are used, as all are of different sizes, it requires considerable time
and care to find a ferule to fit the stick, as well as in whittling off
the end of the stick to suit the ferule. And before going any farther you
will notice that all the counters in the various work-rooms are carpeted.
The carpet prevents the polished sticks from being scratched, and the
dust from sticking to the umbrella goods.

[Illustration: FINISHING THE HANDLE.]

After the handle is put on the stick and a band put on for finish or
ornament, the stick goes to the frame-maker, who fastens the stretchers
to the ribs, strings the top end of the ribs on a wire which is fitted
into the "runner notch;" then he strings the lower ends of the
"stretchers" on a wire and fastens it in the "runner," and then when both
"runners" are securely fixed the umbrella is ready for the cover.

As this is a very important part of the umbrella, several men and women
are employed in making it. In the room where the covers are cut, you will
at first notice a great number of V shaped things hanging against the
wall on either