s strophe, the other took up the lay, and so
continued the song alternately. Throughout the whole of it, the same
notes invariably returned; but, according to the subject-matter of the
strophe, they laid a greater or a smaller stress, sometimes on one, and
sometimes on another note, and indeed changed the enunciation of the
whole strophe as the object of the poem altered.

"On the whole, however, the sounds were hoarse and screaming: they
seemed, in the manner of all rude uncivilised men, to make the
excellency of their singing in the force of their voice. One seemed
desirous of conquering the other by the strength of his lungs; and so
far from receiving delight from this scene (shut up as I was in the box
of the gondola), I found myself in a very unpleasant situation.

"My companion, to whom I communicated this circumstance, being very
desirous to keep up the credit of his countrymen, assured me that the
singing was very delightful when heard at a distance. Accordingly we got
out upon the shore, leaving one of the singers in the gondola, while the
other went to the distance of some hundred paces. They now began to sing
against one another, and I kept walking up and down between them both,
so as always to leave him who was to begin his part. I frequently stood
still and hearkened to the one and to the other.

"Here the scene was properly introduced. The strong declamatory, and, as
it were, shrieking sound, met the ear from far, and called forth the
attention; the quickly succeeding transitions, which necessarily
required to be sung in a lower tone, seemed like plaintive strains
succeeding the vociferations of emotion or of pain. The other, who
listened attentively, immediately began where the former left off,
answering him in milder or more vehement notes, according as the purport
of the strophe required. The sleepy canals, the lofty buildings, the
splendour of the moon, the deep shadows of the few gondolas that moved
like spirits hither and thither, increased the striking peculiarity of
the scene; and, amidst all these circumstances, it was easy to confess
the character of this wonderful harmony.

"It suits perfectly well with an idle, solitary mariner, lying at length
in his vessel at rest on one of these canals, waiting for his company,
or for a fare, the tiresomeness of which situation is somewhat
alleviated by the songs and poetical stories he has in memory. He often
raises his voice as loud as he can, which ext