ectacle naught remained save the soft
roseate hue which melted insensibly into the deep azure of the zenith.
Quiet seemed settling o'er mountain and river, when, with a solemn
sweetness, the vesper bells chimed out on the evening air. Even as the
Moslem kneels at sunset toward the "Holy City," so punctiliously does
the devout papist bend for vesper prayers. Will you traverse with me
the crooked streets, and stand beneath the belfry whence issued the
holy tones?

This ancient edifice was constructed in 1692. It fronted the Plaza,
and was a long, narrow building, flanked, as it were, by wings lower
than the main apartment, and surmounted by a dome, in which were five
or six bells. This dome or belfry was supported by pillars, and in the
intervening openings were placed the bells. The roof was flat, and the
dark green and gray moss clung along the sides. The interior presented
a singular combination of art and rudeness; the seats were of
unpainted pine, and the cement floor between was worn irregularly by
the knees of devout attendants. The railing of the altar was of carved
mahogany, rich and beautiful. Over this division of the long room hung
a silken curtain, concealing three niches, which contained an image of
the "Virgin," the "Child," and in the center one, a tall gilt cross.
Heavy silver candlesticks were placed in front of each niche, and
a dozen candles were now burning dimly. A variety of relics, too
numerous to mention, were scattered on the altar, and in addition,
several silver goblets, and a massive bowl for holding "holy water." A
few tin sconces, placed against the wall, were the only provision for
lighting that dark, gloomy church, and dreary enough it looked in the
twilight hour. About a dozen devotees were present, all kneeling on
the damp, hard floor. The silk curtain which concealed the altar was
drawn aside, with due solemnity, by two boys habited in red flannel
petticoats, over which hung a loose white slip. The officiating priest
was seen kneeling before the altar, with his lips pressed to the
foot of the cross. He retained his position for several moments, then
rising, conducted the ceremonies in a calm, imposing manner. When
these were concluded, and all had departed save the two boys, who
still knelt before the Virgin, he beckoned them to him, and speaking
a few words in Spanish, ended by pointing to the door and uttering,
emphatically, "Go." Crossing themselves as they passed the images,
they d