vet and satin, the
hat trimmed with plumes of gay feathers, and the neck adorned with bands
of cambric, trimmed with Flanders and Brussels lace. The perfection and
costliness to which the costume eventually reached is best shown by a
description of Sir Richard Fanshaw ambassador of the king, as presented
in the diary of his spouse. "Sir Richard was dressed," she writes, "in
a very rich suit of clothes of a dark FILLEMONTE brocade, laced with
silver and gold lace--nine laces--every one as broad as my hand, and
a little silver and gold lace laid between them, both of very curious
workmanship; his suit was trimmed with scarlet taffety ribbon; his
stockings of white silk upon long scarlet silk ones; his shoes black,
with scarlet shoestrings and gaiters; his linen very fine, laced with
rich Flanders lace; a black beaver buttoned on the left side with a
jewel of twelve hundred pounds' value, a rich curious wrought gold
chain, made in the Indies at which hung the king his master's picture,
richly set with diamonds; on his fingers he wore two rich rings; his
gloves trimmed with the same ribbon as his clothes."

The uttermost extravagance and luxury in dress now obtained; indeed,
to such a passion and pride did it reach that the monarch resolved on
giving it some check by inventing a suit of plainer pretensions, which
should become the national costume, and admit no change.

This determination he solemnly declared to his council in October, 1666,
and on the 14th of the month appeared clad in a long vest slashed with
white silk, reaching the knee, having the sword girt over it, a loose
coat, straight Spanish breeches ruffled with black ribbons, and buskins
instead of shoes and stockings. Though the habit was pronounced decent
and becoming to his majesty, and was quickly adopted by the courtiers,
there were those amongst his friends who offered him a wager he would
not persist in wearing it long. At this the king stated his resolution
afresh of never changing; but before the month was out he had made an
alteration, for inasmuch as the vest being slashed with white, was said
by a wag to make the wearers look like magpies, his majesty changed the
colour of the silk to black. This "manly and comely habit" might
have become permanently the fashion, if the King of France, by way of
ridiculing the merry monarch, had not caused his footmen to be clad in
like manner. Therefore, in less than two years, this mode gave place
to others more