are plumage and rich colour; the cloaks changed
hues from sad to gay; the hoods being of "yellow bird's eye," and other
bright tints. Indeed, the prodigal manner in which ladies of quality now
exposed their bosoms, though pleasing to the court, became a matter of
grave censure to worthy men. One of these in a pamphlet, entitled
"A Just and Seasonable Reprehension of Naked Breasts and Shoulders,"
charges women of fashion with "overlacing their gown bodies, and
so thrusting up their breasts in order that they might show them
half-naked." It was not only at balls and in chambers of entertainment,
he avowed, they appeared in this manner, but likewise at church,
where their dress was "not only immodest, but sometimes impudent and
lascivious;" for they braved all dangers to have the satisfaction of
being seen, and the consolation of giving pleasure.

The riding-habit, first introduced in 1664 caused considerable notice,
and no small amount of mirth. The garb, as it was called, consisted of
a doublet buttoned up the breast, a coat with long skirts, a periwig and
tall hat, so that women clad in this fashion might be mistaken for men,
if it were not for the petticoat which dragged under the coat. At the
commencement of the reign, ladies of the court wore their hair after the
French fashion, cut short in front and frizzed upon the forehead.
When the queen arrived, her hair was arranged A LA NEGLIGENCE, a mode
declared mighty pretty; but presently a fashion came in vogue of wearing
"false locks set on wyres to make them stand at a distance from the
head; as fardingales made the clothes stand out in Queen Elizabeth's
reign." Painting the face, which had been practised during the
Commonwealth, became fashionable; as did likewise the use of patches
and vizards or masks; which from the convenience they afforded wearers
whilst witnessing an immoral play, or conducting a delicate intrigue,
came greatly into use.

According to Randal Holmes's notes on dress, in the Harleian Library,
the male costume at the restoration consisted of "a short-waisted
doublet, and petticoat breeches--the lining, being lower than the
breeches, is tied above the knees. The breeches are ornamented with
ribands up to the pocket, and half their breadth upon the thigh; the
waistband is set about with ribands, and the shirt hanging out over
them." This dress gradually increased in richness and ornamentation: the
doublet and breeches being changed from cloth to vel