perpetually in grass,
refusing to have a plow touch it on any condition. They see wrong
tillage produce barrenness. But by this practice they are great losers;
they never get over one half the hay or pasturage that could be obtained
by frequent tillage and manuring, and a rotation of crops.

PLUM.

This is one of our best fruits, but suffers more from enemies than any
other.

_Propagation_ is by seeds or layers, budding or grafting. Seeds from
trees not exposed to mixture with other varieties in the blossom, will
produce the same; hence, this is the best method of propagating a given
variety, standing alone. But, for most situations, budding is preferable
to any other method. This should be performed earlier than on the peach.
The plum matures earlier, and hence should be budded about the last of
July, or first of August. Bud on the north side of the tree to avoid
the hot sun; and tie more tightly than in budding other trees. Bud
plum-trees the second year from the seed. Grafting should be resorted to
only when buds have failed, and there is a prospect that the trees will
be too large for budding another season. The common wild plums make good
stocks, if grafted at the ground. Thoroughly mulch all newly-grafted
plum-trees. Root-grafting will succeed, but should never be practised.
In all grafting of plums, put the graft in at the surface of the ground,
and cover with sawdust or mould, leaving but one bud on the graft
exposed.

_Soil._--All soils are good for the plum, provided they be thoroughly
drained, and properly fertilized.

Hard soils are recommended as being almost proof against the curculio.
That a soil affording a rather hard, smooth surface, will afford less
burrows for curculio, and consequently lessen their ravages, is no doubt
true. But it is not a perfect remedy, and, on other accounts, such a
soil is no better. A good firm loam is best. Plums will do well also on
light land, but are more exposed to injury from the curculio.

_Transplanting._--The plum being perfectly hardy, we recommend
transplanting in autumn. Shorten in the top, cut off considerable of the
tap-root, and the ends of the long roots, transplant well, and mulch so
thoroughly as to prevent too strong action of the frost on the roots,
and they will start early and do well. Twelve feet apart for small
varieties, and twenty feet for larger growers, are the distances usually
recommended. We think a rod apart each way will do well for a