it Fliptown. Later it was called Rockwell and
Harrisburg; and finally Juneau, the name it still bears with more or
less dignity. The customary Indian village hangs upon the borders of the
town; in fact, the two wings of the settlement are aboriginal; but the
copper-skin seems not particularly interested in the progress of
civilization, further than the occasional chance it affords him of
turning an honest penny in the disposal of his wares.

No sooner was the gang-plank out than we all made a rush for the trading
stores in search of curios. The faculty of acquisitiveness grows with
what it feeds on; and before the Alaskan tour is over, it almost amounts
to a mania among the excursionists. You should have seen us--men, women
and children--hurrying along the beach toward the heart of Juneau, where
we saw flags flying from the staves that stood by the trading-stores. It
was no easy task to distance a competitor in those great thoroughfares.
Juneau has an annual rainfall of nine feet; the streets are guttered:
indeed the streets are gutters in some cases. I know of at least one
little bridge that carries the pedestrian from one sidewalk to another,
over the muddy road below. I was headed off on my way to the N. W. T.
Co.'s warehouse, and sat me down on a stump to write till the rush on
bric-a-brac was over. Meanwhile I noticed the shake shanties and the
pioneers who hung about them, with their long legs crooked under rush
chairs in the diminutive verandas.

Indian belles were out in full feather. Some had their faces covered
with a thick coating of soot and oil; the rims of the eyelids, the tip
of the nose and the inner portions of the lips showing in striking
contrast to the hideous mask, which they are said to wear in order to
preserve their complexion. They look for the most part like black-faced
monkeys, and appear in this guise a great portion of the time in order
to dazzle the town, after a scrubbing, with skins as fair and sleek as
soft-soap. Even some of the sterner sex are constrained to resort to art
in the hope of heightening their manly beauty; but these are, of course,
Alaskan dudes, and as such are doubtless pardonable.

There is a bath-house in Juneau and a barber-shop. They did a big
business on our arrival. There are many billiard halls, where prohibited
drinks are more or less surreptitiously obtained. A dance-hall stands
uninvitingly open to the street. At the doorway, as we passed it, was
posted a hand