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e; others, fallen and broken, were lying near it. The soldiers found in the villages near us several hundred women and about two hundred men; they were peasants who had taken refuge here during the battle between the brigands and the troops of the Pasha. The soldiers were disposed to treat them as enemies, but they were saved from their fury by showing a paper given them by the Pasha, assuring them of protection. It is the rule to give these papers to every village not hostile, to protect them from the soldiers. We remained here all night. The country of Shageia, possessed by the brigands, was the best cultivated we had seen this side of Assuan; the water-wheels, so far as we have passed their country, being frequently within half a stone's throw of each other. They obliged the peasants to work hard to raise food and forage to ml the magazines of their castles, which are seen here and there all over this country. 8th of Rebi. The wind and the direction of the river continuing the same, we were obliged to advance by the cordel. The country continued fine and well cultivated, and we passed several large and beautiful islands. In walking along the shore, saw at a distance a large castle, lately occupied by the brigands; on visiting it, found it capable of accommodating at least a thousand men. The walls and towers very thick and pierced with loopholes: it had been taken by the aid of the Pasha's artillery, and almost every thing combustible in it had been burned by the troops. A few miles beyond this the boat stopped for the night. 9th of Rebi. Heard this morning at day-light, with great pleasure, the report of three cannon, which indicated the proximity of the camp. We proceeded slowly by the cordel, the river obstinate in maintaining the same untoward direction, and the wind consequently adverse. The country we saw to-day, like that we have passed for the last two days, gave us continual occasion of surprise. It was better cultivated than any part of the countries south of Egypt that we had seen. It was crowded with villages and covered with grain, deserted by its proprietors. In the afternoon, however, the disagreeable impression produced by seeing so fine a country without inhabitants was almost obliterated by the pleasure I felt on being informed that a large number of its cultivators, with their wives and children, were on their return to their fields and houses, provided with an escort from the camp, and a firman
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