prons the first time they came back from the wash--thought there had
been some mistake and they had some one's else clothes--they had to
explain to the washerwoman that they liked their aprons ironed
straight); long gold earrings and gold chains. They are handsome women,
dark with straight features, a serious look in their eyes. Certainly
people who live by the sea have a different expression--there is
something grave, almost sad in their faces, which one doesn't see in
dwellers in sunny meadows and woodlands.

We went this morning with the Baron de G., who is at the head of one of
the fishing companies here, to see one of their boats come in and
unload. It was a steam trawler, with enormous nets, that had been
fishing off the English coast near Land's End. There were quite a number
of people assembled on the quay--a policeman, a garde du port, an agent
of the company, and the usual lot of people who are always about when a
fishing-boat comes in. Her cargo seemed to be almost entirely of fish
they call here saumon blanc. They were sending up great baskets of them
from the hold where they were very well packed in ice; half-way up they
were thrown into a big tub which cleaned them--took off the salt and
gave them a silvery look. They are put by hundreds into hand-carts which
were waiting and carried off at once to the Halles. They had brought in
3,500 fish, but didn't seem to think they had made a very good haul. The
whole cargo had been sold to a marieur and was sent off at once, by
him, all over the country.

Other boats were also sending their cargo to the Halles. They had all
kinds of fish--soles, mackerel, and a big red fish I didn't know at all.
I wouldn't have believed, if I had not seen it with my own eyes, that
such a bright-coloured fish could exist. However, a very sharp little
boy, who was standing near and who answered all my questions, told me
they were rougets. We went on to the Halles--a large gray stone building
facing the sea--rather imposing with a square tower on top, from which
one can see a long way out to sea and signal incoming fishing-boats. It
was very clean--water running over the white marble slabs, and women,
with pails and brushes, washing and wiping the floor. It is evidently a
place that attracts strangers; many tourists were walking about--one
couple, American, I think, passing through in an automobile and laying
in a stock of lobsters and crabs (the big deep-sea crabs) and rougets.
The m