luxurious, provided that the
cook is a perfect artist, and that the Amphitryon, as was the case in
this instance, objects not to expense.

The _soupes_ and _entrees_ left no room to regret the absence of flesh
or poultry from their component parts, and the _releves_, in the shape
of a _brochet roti_, and a _turbot a la hollandaise_ supplied the place
of the usual _pieces de resistance_. But not only was the flavour of
the _entrees_ quite as good as if they were composed of meat or
poultry, but the appearance offered the same variety, and the
_cotelettes de poisson_ and _fricandeau d'esturgeon_ might have
deceived all but the profoundly learned in gastronomy,--they looked so
exactly like lamb and veal.

The second course offered equally delicate substitutes for the usual
dainties, and the most fastidious epicure might have been more than
satisfied with the _entremets_.

The bishops in France are said to have had the most luxurious dinners
imaginable on what were erroneously styled fast-days; and their cooks
had such a reputation for their skill, that the having served _a
Monseigneur d'Eglise_ was a passport to the kitchens of all lovers of
good eating. There are people so profane as to insinuate that the
excellence at which the cooks arrived in dressing _les diners maigres_
is one of the causes why Catholicism has continued to flourish; but
this, of course, must be looked on as a malicious hint of the enemies
to that faith which thus proves itself less addicted to indulgence in
the flesh than are its decryers.

CHAPTER XVII.

The more I observe Lady C---- the more surprised I am at the romantic
feelings she still indulges, and the illusions under which she
labours;--yes _labours_ is the suitable word, for it can be nothing
short of laborious, at her age, to work oneself into the belief that
love is an indispensable requisite for life. Not the affection into
which the love of one's youth subsides, but the wild, the ungovernable
passion peculiar to the heroes and heroines of novels, and young ladies
and gentlemen recently emancipated from boarding-schools and colleges.

Poor Lady C----, with so many estimable qualities, what a pity it is
she should have this weakness! She maintained in our conversation
yesterday that true love could never be extinguished in the heart, and
that even in age it burnt with the same fire as when first kindled. I
quoted to her a passage from Le Brun, who says--"L'amour peut
s'et