, by a change
of dress, we had no inclination to anticipate the period of repose, but
hurried our toilet, in order to join the dinner at the _table-d'hote._

Marseilles struck us as being the handsomest and the cleanest town we
had yet seen in France. All the houses are spacious and lofty, built
of white stone, and in good condition, while every portion of the city
is well paved, either after the English fashion, or with brick, quite
even, and inserted in a very tasteful manner. Many of the streets
are extremely wide, and some are adorned with handsome fountains.
The shops are very elegant, and much more decorated than those of any
other place in France; some had paintings upon glass, richly gilded,
on either side of the doors, handsome curtains hung down within, and
the merchandise displayed was of the best description. These shops
were also well lighted, and together with the brilliant illuminations
of the neighbouring _cafes_, gave the streets a very gay appearance.
We wandered about until rather a late hour; the _cafes_, both inside
and outside, were crowded with gentlemen; but in the promenades we
saw fewer ladies than we had expected, and came to the conclusion--an
erroneous one in all probability--that French women stay very much at
home. Assuredly, the beauty of the night was most inviting; but, worn
out at last, we were obliged to retire to our hotel.

The next day, we made inquiries concerning the steamers, and
learned that the French boat was certainly to start on the following
afternoon, the 21st, while the departure of the English vessel
was uncertain, depending upon the arrival of the mails. Though
disappointed at finding that the French steamer did not touch at
Naples, as I had been led to believe, I felt inclined to take my
passage in her; but the advantage of being in time to meet the Bombay
steamer at Suez was so strongly urged upon me, in consequence of the
ticklish state of affairs in Egypt, that, finding plenty of room on
board the _Niagara_, we engaged a couple of berths in the ladies'
cabins. Mehemet Ali was represented to us as being so obstinately
determined to retain possession of the Turkish fleet, and the British
Government so urgent with France to support the Porte against him,
that, if this intelligence was to be depended upon, no time ought to
be lost. It was with reluctance that I gave up my original intention
of lingering on the road, and at Malta, but my unwillingness to run
any risk