to imagine how the
unfortunates shut up there can ever have any exercise. I don't wonder
that the Emperor preferred Yuen-ming-yuen. The yellow roofs,
interspersed here and there with very deep blue ones, had, however, a
very brilliant effect in the sunshine. After enjoying these views I
went to the Russian Minister's, and found him installed in a house got
up _a l'Europeenne_, and looking very comfortable, with his national
stoves. He showed me his chapel also. This morning I got a letter from
Gros telling me that, in opposition to my advice, he had been to see
Prince Kung. I told him he ought to let the Prince come to him first;
but the Jesuits think that they can curry favour with the Chinese by
making him _condescend_. They are quite wrong, as I am sure the result
will prove. The Prince came to see me to-day before returning Gros'
visit, which goes for something in this land of ceremony. I received
the Prince with all honour, and had a good deal of talk with him
through the interpreters, in a style which reminded me of the dialogue
at the commencement of 'Eothen.' I have, I believe, secured the edict
for which we have been waiting; so I have done everything except see
the Emperor, which I am not likely to do, as he is at Jehol. We ended
by photographing the Prince, a proceeding which I do not think he much
liked.
[Sidenote: Return visit.]
_November 7th._--There has not been much to report since the 2nd. I
returned Kung's visit the next day, and we had a more _coulant_
conversation than I have before had with any Chinese authority. It is
something to get at men who are so high placed that they are not
afraid--or at any rate are less afraid--of being denounced if they
listen to foreigners. I dined the night before with the Russian
Minister, who was very hospitable. On Sunday I went to see two temples
in the Chinese city, the one being that to which the Emperor goes four
times a year to offer sacrifices to Heaven, the other the Temple of
Agriculture.
[Sidenote: Arrival of Mr. Bruce.]
[Sidenote: Interview with Prince Kung.]
_November 10th._--I had got so far when a note from Frederick reached
me, saying that he had started at 1 A.M. on the 6th from Tientsin to
ride to Pekin, and had been obliged, by fatigue, to rest at Ho-see-
woo. We were to have left Pekin on the 8th, so I was
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