und it gone and turned about just before reaching Santa Maria
to retrace our steps across the long bridge and then across a wide
stretch of dry, sandy river bed. The ravages of the floods had torn a
much wider path for the river than it now used, so that for nearly a
mile we drove over sandy river bottom, the river being a shrunken
stream. To our great joy we met another motor car, and found that the
three gentlemen in it had picked up my bag and were bringing it along to
Santa Maria in the hope of finding the owner. What had promised to be a
long and tiring search, involving the questioning of every passer-by and
inquiry at every wayside house for miles, turned out to be only a short
drive. We turned toward Santa Maria and went on our way rejoicing.

Santa Maria is a large, prosperous, attractive town. On toward Los
Olivos the country is like some parts of New England, attractive but
lonely. We are glad to reach in the twilight the hospitable lights of
Mattei's Tavern at Los Olivos. Mr. Mattei is Swiss by birth, but has
spent many years in California. He has a ranch whose acres supply his
unusually good table with vegetables, poultry, and flowers. His house is
kept with the neatness and comfort of an excellent Swiss inn, and is a
delightful place for a sojourn. We are sorry to come away on the morning
of the first of May. We pass dozens of wagons and buggies, the people
all in holiday attire, coming into town for the May-day celebrations.
Los Olivos was once an olive growing valley, but grain growing has been
found more profitable. We wish to see the Santa Ynez mission and
therefore take the route to the right, avoiding the road to Santa
Barbara by way of Santa Ynez and the San Marcos Pass. The Santa Ynez
Mission has a situation of unusual beauty. It stands on a tableland with
a circle of mountains behind it, and at its left a low green valley
stretching away into the distance. A Danish settlement of neat new
houses of modern type faces the old Mission. The church has been
restored, and ten years of loving care have been bestowed upon it by the
present priest and his niece. The choice old vestments have been mended
with extreme care. The ladies of the Spanish Court are said to have
furnished the rich brocades for these vestments, which were sent on from
Spain and made up at the Mission. It is an ancient custom for the
Indians to wash the handwoven linen vestments, a custom they still
observe. The walls of Santa Ynez are