nd it can be used for many jellies, gravies, and
sauces.

* * * * *

FISH.

The most essential point in choosing fish is their _freshness_, and this
is determined as follows: if the gills are red, the eyes prominent and
full, and the whole fish stiff, they are good; but if the eyes are sunken,
the gills pale, and the fish flabby, they are stale and unwholesome, and,
though often eaten in this condition, lack all the fine flavor of a
freshly-caught fish.

The fish being chosen, the greatest care is necessary in cleaning. If this
is properly done, one washing will be sufficient: the custom of allowing
fresh fish to lie in water after cleaning, destroys much of their flavor.

Fresh-water fish, especially the cat-fish, have often a muddy taste and
smell. To get rid of this, soak in water strongly salted; say, a cupful of
salt to a gallon of water, letting it heat gradually in this, and boiling
it for one minute; then drying it thoroughly before cooking.

All fish for boiling should be put into cold water, with the exception of
salmon, which loses its color unless put into boiling water. A
tablespoonful each of salt and vinegar to every two quarts of water
improves the flavor of all boiled fish, and also makes the flesh firmer.
Allow ten minutes to the pound after the fish begins to boil, and test
with a knitting-needle or sharp skewer. If it runs in easily, the fish can
be taken off. If a fish-kettle with strainer is used, the fish can be
lifted out without danger of breaking. If not, it should be thoroughly
dredged with flour, and served in a cloth kept for the purpose. In all
cases drain it perfectly, and send to table on a folded napkin laid upon
the platter.

In frying, fish should, like all fried articles, be _immersed_ in the hot
lard or drippings. Small fish can be fried whole; larger ones boned, and
cut in small pieces. If they are egged and crumbed, the _egg_ will form a
covering, hardening at once, and absolutely impervious to fat.

Pan-fish, as they are called,--flounders and small fish generally,--can
also be fried by rolling in Indian meal or flour, and browning in the fat
of salt pork.

Baking and broiling preserve the flavor most thoroughly.

Cold boiled fish can always be used, either by spicing as in the rule to
be given, or by warming again in a little butter and water. Cold fried or
broiled fish, can be put in a pan, and set in the oven till hot, this
requiring