removed and used for stock, and the beef
rolled or skewered firmly, making a piece very easily carved, and almost
as presentable the second day as the first. For steaks sirloin is nearly
as good, and much more economical, than porter-house, which gives only a
small eatable portion, the remainder being only fit for the stock-pot. If
the beef be very young and tender, steaks from the round may be used; but
these are usually best stewed. Other pieces and modes of cooking are given
under their respective heads.

MUTTON should be a light, clear red, and the fat very white and firm. It
is always improved by keeping, and in cold weather can be hung for a
month, if carefully watched to see that it has not become tainted. Treated
in this way, well-fed mutton is equal to venison. If the fat is deep
yellow, and the lean dark red, the animal is too old; and no keeping will
make it really good eating. Four years is considered the best age for
prime mutton.

VEAL also must have clear white fat, and should be fine in grain. If the
kidney is covered with firm white fat, it indicates health, and the meat
is good; if yellow, it is unwholesome, and should not be eaten. The loin
and fillet are used in roasting, and are the choice pieces, the breast
coming next, and the neck and ribs being good for stewing and fricassees.

PORK should have fine, white fat, and the meat should be white and smooth.
Only country-fed pork should ever be eaten, the pig even then being
liable to diseases unknown to other animals, and the meat, even when
carefully fed, being at all times less digestible than any sort. _Bacon_,
carefully cured and smoked, is considered its most wholesome form.

POULTRY come last. The best _Turkeys_ have black legs; and, if young, the
toes and bill are soft and pliable. The combs of fowls should be bright
colored, and the legs smooth.

_Geese_, if young and fine, are plump in the breast, have white soft fat,
and yellow feet.

_Ducks_ are chosen by the same rule as geese, and are firm and thick on
the breast.

_Pigeons_ should be fresh, the breast plump, and the feet elastic. Only
experience can make one familiar with other signs; and a good butcher can
usually be trusted to tide one over the season of inexperience, though the
sooner it ends the better for all parties concerned.

BOILED MEATS AND STEWS.

All meats intended to be boiled and served whole at table must be put into
_boiling water_, thus following an entirely